A Masterpiece of a Masterpiece : The Borghese Gallery at the Musée Jacquemart-André

A review of one of the best exhibitions of Fall 2024

Imagine a collection of art so extraordinary that it’s rarely seen outside of Rome. Now, picture that collection on display in Paris. This is the unique opportunity presented by the newly restored Musée Jacquemart-André’s fall exhibition.

The museum is currently hosting approximately 40 masterpieces from the world-renowned Borghese Gallery in Rome. This exceptional partnership allows visitors to admire works by legendary artists like Caravaggio, Rubens, Botticelli, Raphael, Titian, and many more. These are pieces that have rarely left Italy.

The Borghese Gallery itself has a fascinating history. Built in the 17th century by Cardinal Scipione Borghese, it was designed to showcase his vast collection of art and antiques. Scipione was a passionate collector, known for his discerning eye and his willingness to acquire masterpieces by any means necessary.

The collection has remained largely intact for centuries, passing through generations of the Borghese family. In 1902, the family sold the villa and its museum to the Italian State. Today, it’s a must-see destination for visitors to Rome.

The exhibition at the Musée Jacquemart-André offers a glimpse into this extraordinary collection. You will see works by renowned Italian artists as well as Northern European painters who worked in Italy. The exhibition will also highlight lesser-known artists who contributed significantly to the art of the time.

I went on the 6th of September, on the day of reopening. I was very very excited by this exhibition, where I could see one of my favorite artist, Caravaggio.

Here’s my very subjective review of this exhibition !

Overall rating: 17/20

Artistic and technical quality of the artworks : 5/5

This category focuses on the intrinsic qualities of the artworks and their presentation.

• This exhibition features a stunning collection of masterpieces by renowned Renaissance and Baroque artists that worked in Italy, all from the prestigious Borghese Gallery. It’s an exceptional opportunity to see such a collection outside of Rome (even though it’s only a part of it).

• The galleries are intentionally dark, with spotlights emphasizing individual artworks. The overall display is well-executed, although certain paintings, especially those employing chiaroscuro (where the artist uses a strong contrast between light and dark), could benefit from slightly different lighting. I’m not going to bother, and still give the maximum note here !

Content and context 4.5/5

This category pertains to the intellectual richness of the exhibition and its ability to inform and educate.

• The museum offers an informative app with detailed explanations for many of the featured artworks. A press kit is available to download prior to the exhibition, and you can also use a free audiosystem provided by the museum. A special game-book for kids is also available when you ask for it.

• Before entering the temporary exhibition, a video provides valuable context, offering insights into the ongoing restoration of the Borghese Gallery and the unique opportunity to view these artworks at the Musée Jacquemart-André

• Inside the galleries, you’ll find informative panels about each major artist, displayed near their respective paintings. QR codes offer additional online content, accessible through the app.

• Moving from one room to another, we are explained how Scipione Borghese assembled the Borghese collection and his vision for the collection. Some rooms are designed to recreate the experience of visiting the Borghese Gallery, such as the “Love & Eros” room, which mimics the “Room of Venus”. The scenography is globally well done, very simple. It could use more explanations for children.

Visitor experience : 3.5/5

This category emphasizes the visitor’s experience and immersion in the exhibition.

• The Musée Jacquemart-André has just been restored. Its collection is located in a magnificent private mansion, and the temporary exhibition fits perfectly inside. There’s a real WOW effect when you enter in the museum for the first time, that puts you in a great mood ! :)

• You need to book a ticket, slots are open every 15 minutes which helps regulating the crowds. On the day of opening, I had about 20 persons with me in my 15-minutes time slot, which is quite acceptable.

• Even though the regulation, the rooms of the temporary exhibition are quite small, and you will not avoid minor bumps with other visitors.

• The temporary exhibition is just a part of the museum, and I invite you to take the time to visit all the other empty rooms the museum has to offer. Some incredible paintings will be seen only by the visitors taking their time to explore the permanent collection.

• In terms of shopping (yes it’s important !), you will find plenty of great books and souvenirs, with the major paintings displayed on them. I’m just disappointed in the selection of tote bags. One could have expected at least Caravaggio’s Boy with a Basket of Fruit Tote bag, which was used as the symbol for this exhibition.

  

In terms of Logistics :

The museum is open everyday between 10AM and 6PM. On Saturdays and Sundays, it closes at 7PM, and on Fridays, at 10PM.
The Nélie restaurant awaits you after your tour, in another beautiful part of the old private mansion.
The museum is located : 158 boulevard Haussmann 75008 Paris. It is just a short walk from the Champs-Élysées and the big department stores.
By metro: Lines 9 and 13, Saint-Augustin, Miromesnil or Saint-Philippe du Roule stations.
By RER: Line A, Charles de Gaulle - Étoile station.
By bus: Lines 22, 43, 52, 54, 28, 80, 83, 84, 93.  

Overall personal impression 4/5

This category is designed to capture my subjective feelings and thoughts about the exhibition as a whole.

• Even though I was expecting masterpieces, I had my first WOW effect as I entered the first room. Right in front of my eyes, the Caravaggio painting I was looking to admire. Here. Just in front of me. And without the usual crowds of the Louvre, just me and the young Boy with a Basket of Fruit.

• The exhibition exceeded my expectations. I was promised masterpieces, and I was not disappointed ! While I was sorry to miss other Caravaggio paintings and Bernini sculptures, the logistical challenges and potential risks made me understand why they weren’t included. I’ll have to visit Rome to complete my exploration of these artists.

• While this exhibition is fabulous for the guide I am and that never went to the Borghese Gallery, it is in my opinion both a must-see and not a must-absolutely-see exhibition. There is no specific concept here, excepted maybe “Let’s take artworks from this place in Roma and bring them in that place in Paris”, like we have seen in other exhibitions that tried to focus on a certain subject, or about a specific moment of life of an artist.

  So must-see if you really like the artists displayed here, or live in France. And not a must-see if it’s your first time in Paris.

  Don’t worry, if you miss it, you’ll still be able to go later to the restored Borghese Gallery next year ! :)

• Even though what I just wrote, this will not prevent me from going back there multiple times during this Fall ! The selection of artworks is amazing ! (even though I would have loved more Caravaggio’s paintings), and really helpful in my constant learning. We are very lucky to have this exhibition proposed in Paris by the Musée Jacquemart-André.

Conclusion

The Musée Jacquemart-André’s exhibition of Borghese Gallery masterpieces is a rare and unforgettable opportunity for art lovers. By bringing together such a renowned collection of Italian Renaissance and Baroque art, the museum has created a truly exceptional experience.

While the exhibition’s focus on a specific selection of artworks may limit its appeal to some, it’s undoubtedly a must-see for those who appreciate the beauty and historical significance of these masterpieces. The opportunity to view such iconic works in Paris is a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Whether you’re a seasoned art enthusiast or simply looking for a memorable cultural outing, this exhibition is highly recommended. Don’t miss the chance to witness the genius of Caravaggio, Titian, Raphael, and other legendary artists in this stunning Parisian setting.

Note :

This is my second review, so, obviously, it still isn’t perfect.
I tried to reflect through these key points my feeling and experience of that visit. The overall rating (17/20) fits my general idea of that exhibition. It's a stunning exhibition and undoubtedly one of my top picks of the year!

By the way, is it even possible to rate an exhibition ? I’m still not sure yet if that’s the right way to do… so let me know what you think in the comments.